(No) Rules of the Road

I honestly don't know what to say about driving around Phnom Penh. It's a chaos unlike any other I've experienced. Cars, motorbikes, and "tuk-tuks" loaded with people and merchandise - I'm talking about whole families on one motorbike - course through the streets in any and every direction. There's an occasional traffic light or cop, but for the most part vehicles just come at each other at intersections, tie themselves into a knot of people and steel and diesel and shop-wares, and then somehow make it out the other side unscathed. Feel like making a left turn from the right lane, sure! Would it be quicker to drive on the wrong side of the road into oncoming traffic, why not? The most awesome part is that there's no road rage. I've never seen a driver mouth off, hit the horn in anger, or show signs of stress on the road. The expectation is that anything goes, and so there's no problem when anything happens. Dare I say it's kind of fun? I don't want to tempt fate.